Well…now you do. Â We started a YOUTUBE Channel about 8 months ago, but of course did nothing very big to promote it. Â But we’ve gotten quite a few views on some of the videos. Â Especially the ones with Ryan Leech. Â You can subscribe to it here…
Be prepared - carry an emergency First Aid Kit. First Aid kits are designed specifically for mountain bikers with contents selected and tested by paramedics who actively ride the trails.
Have someone know where you are going and when you expect to return. Discuss what to do if you don’t return.
Ride in groups of three or more. This way at least one person can stay with an injured person while one, or more, riders go for help.
Regroup frequently during rides especially at intersections. If you don’t stop at an intersection look behind you and confirm that the next rider sees the way.
Enroll in a first aid course, 16-hour course or longer, and recertify or upgrade your training every 2-3 years.
Ride with a backpack and stock it with a tool kit, a first aid kit and other items for comfort, safety and emergencies.
Respect other user groups and ride responsibly.
Leave no trace.
Know before you ride what action to take in the event of an accident that requires more medical attention or/and evacuation.
First Aid training is highly recommended for all mountain bikers. Call your local first aid responder to sign-up for a first aid course in your area.
Suggested First-Aid Contents
Click here to learn more about what you should carry with you on the trail.
As a developing rider, get your basics dialed. If you can get these three basics to feel like second nature, you will develop your riding prowess quickly.
Feel solid with maintaining your Neutral Position - placing equal weight over both the front and rear wheels, over all sorts of varying terrain, starting slowly and building up.
Practice keeping your index finger on your brake lever at all times - you never know when you need your brakes.
When negotiating the rough stuff, here is another fundamental element will take you to the next level. As the bike gets bumped around side to side it wants to throw you off balance laterally.
Open up those knees, and keep them away from the frame, almost “cowboy” style - This allows the bike to move laterally between the legs while keeping the upper body and head stable over the bike. There is an old wives tale that squeezing your knees together and holding the seat will stabilize you, but in fact, this couldn’t be further from the truth.
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The arms will also play a role by leaning the bike side to side as necessary (by extending one arm and bending the other).
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Remember to keep the front wheel steady and traveling in a moderately straight line (refrain from steering).
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The shoulders remain level and centered as the movement comes mostly from the arms.
If you want to ride with one finger braking, which is
recommended, brake set-up is very important. Below are three
adjustments that will make your one finger braking work for you.
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Move the brake lever inboard on the handlebars - This
means sliding the brake lever on the handlebar towards the stem until
your index finger rests on the outer part of the lever, just before the
notch at the end. The outer edge of your hand should be at the end of
the handlebar. This is the place where you will get the best power for
minimum effort.
The next adjustment is called “reach adjustment” and the
placement of these reach adjusters may differ from brake to brake -
The typical adjustment is a 1.5 or 2mm allen key slot that sits between
the brake lever and where the brake attaches to the handlebar. (photo
insert of shimano brake). By turning the adjuster one way or the other,
you will notice your brake lever will move closer or further away from
the handlebar. The best position for your lever is when your index
finger is resting on the lever and your last knuckle sits directly over
the lever. Upon pulling the lever, it will initiate braking  optimal
point of threshold is when the index finger is flexed around 90
degrees.
The last adjustment is the angle of the brake lever, or up / down
angle - You want the angle to be approximately 45 degrees to begin
with and experiment slightly from there. It’s important to have a
neutral wrist for most of your riding - if it is cocked either way, you
are increasing your risk of injury. This is why lever angle is so important.
Thanks for your podcasts – they are fantastic! So helpful for the beginner that doesn’t have anyone to show her the basics. Please keep them coming !!
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Cheers!
Posted on 10/17/06 by Jemma Coleman - Western Australia
 
     
 
     
